Climbing Mount Toubkal in winter conditions is the best way to enjoy this classic mountain. Imagine standing on the highest point of North Africa, feet in the snow, looking down over the Sahara Desert. This is an incredible experience! The winter air is so clear above 4000m that you can sometimes see as far as the coast. Eagles and maybe Bearded Vultures wheel above you in the blue sky, and far below to the north lies Marrakech. The business of the medina and the souks seems a world away from the incredible isolation of Toubkal summit. What a unique world, what a place to be, standing atop the roof of North Africa.

Although you will need to use ice-axe and crampons for the ascent, it is mostly a non-technical mountain, achievable by anyone of reasonable hill-walking fitness and stamina. Here are some pointers for what to expect should you wish to make the attempt to climb Mount Toubkal in winter.

Your ascent of Toubkal will usually begin from the village of Imlil. The path from here winds up under walnut trees, around the beautiful Kasbah du Toubkal and climbs alongside a waterfall, before turning past the last village of Aroumd. It then winds up the valley past a dry riverbed to the shrine of Sidi Chamharouch. In winter the snow can often be as low down as Aroumd (1800m altitude). Although it melts quickly when the sun comes out, this could mean that you are in snow from the very beginning of your ascent.

Mules cannot operate in snow, as their shoes slip too much. (Did anyone think of inventing crampons which clip to horseshoes?!). In this case, you will require porters to carry your bags up to the refuge rather than mules. Bear in mind that one porter carries one bag whereas a mule carries three, so it will be more expensive to use porters, but unavoidable. On the upside, it is giving work to the local guys, which is a bonus for them. So don’t begrudge the added expense, and remember to tip them well after your trek.

The way up to the Toubkal refuge is usually not technically difficult even under winter conditions. At some stage on the way up you will need to don crampons, this depends entirely upon the condition of the snow at the time.

Up at the refuge you can relax for the night. The winter moroccan sun may feel quite warm, but once it sets the cold comes in quickly here at 3200m. If you are in the Mouflons refuge then you can enjoy the warmth of their fire and relax in comfort. I think the CAF refuge (Neltner) now has some heating too. Bear in mind though that the dormitories will be freezing cold! A four-season sleeping bag is recommended, as are earplugs.

If it’s your first time doing winter mountaineering then it is a good idea to have an acclimatisation day from

the refuge before attempting to climb Toubkal. On our treks we will train you fully in the use of ice-axe and crampons, and give you lots of time to practice on the slopes up beyond the refuge. Stronger groups often use this day to climb Ras and Timizguida (collectively the Ouanoukrims), the 4000m summits which dominate the skyline to the south of the refuge. This is well worth doing, both for the achievement of summiting two more 4000ers, but also because they are less walked than Toubkal and therefore more pristine. Slightly more technical than Toubkal, there is just one difficult section leading up from the coll to the flatter summit cone of Ras. It’s a narrow ridge with quite severe drops both sides, so you will need to keep your head about you if you are suffering from vertigo or altitude.

On summit day, most groups set off early for Toubkal. Some people like to do the climb in the dark, arriving up top for sunrise. Other parties are more relaxed, setting off just before sunrise and summiting mid to late morning. The snow conditions here are very different to the Alps, so a super-early start is not always essential. Unless there has been significant snowfall the night before, the path to the summit of Toubkal is usually a well worn trench in the snow. It’s normally a good idea to stick to it as the snow underfoot will be well compacted. With it’s dry conditions, Toubkal’s snow is often very powdery so trailbreaking away from a worn path can be extremely difficult. Snowshoes may even be preferable to crampons in this instance, although the steepness of the high Atlas Mountains are not really very suited for snowshoeing.

If you climb Mount Toubkal by the normal (South Coll) route, there is just one tricky section. After breaking out onto the Tizi n Toubkal coll, the path turns left. This part is steep but not technical. Just after you pass 4000m altitude however, the main path turns left again, away from the ridgeline. There is a short section of exposed traverse with a very steep drop-off to the left. A slip here would be catastrophic so be careful and use your ice-axe correctly to safeguard every step.

A short climb later you will be on the summit plateau, and the iconic metal pyramid will be visible on the left 150m away.

If you decide to climb by the less-frequented North Coll, then the way to access it is to follow the valley down below the refuges for a few hundred meters, skirting under the imposing cliffs which divide the two colls. After this it’s a straightforward route up the North Coll until you come out under the summit ridge cliff face. There is the debris of a wrecked airplane here for those who have the time to look for it. The route then turns left, following under the cliff face until it breaks out onto the North Ridge of Toubkal. This route is often more interesting than the “normal route”, as it is much less frequented. The downside is that if no-one has broken trail it can be exhausting wading through waist-deep powder. So make your decision based upon this, and be aware that if something goes wrong there may be no other groups on this route and you will be quite alone.

Whichever way you do it, climbing Toubkal in Winter is a rewarding experience and well worth doing. There are none of the dangers which a similarly sized mountain in europe would bring. The Atlas Mountains are non-glaciated, which means there are no risky glacier crossings or crevasses to deal with. What is more, the weather is often pleasant and sunny even in winter. (Don’t let this catch you unprepared though, people died earlier this year in unpredictable snowstorms due to inappropriate gear).

Finally, a note on safety. At 4167m, Toubkal is a big mountain. Altitude sickness is common, as is dehydration due to the arid conditions. There exists no mountain rescue service in Morocco, so a small accident can quickly escalate to something life-threatening. Above the level of the refuges, self-rescue may be the only available option – there is not even a reliable phone signal. You shouldn’t attempt this mountain without a guide unless you are an experienced winter mountaineer. If in doubt, put safety first and hire a professional who knows the mountain well and can train you in using your winter equipment.

Winter has come here in the Atlas. What better time to climb Toubkal? Not only is the mountain a classic, the experience of eating with and living with the local berber people for a few days is unforgettable. Their hospitality is legendary, and the food is delicious!

Marhaba gh ElMagrib!!! (Welcome to Morocco!)

For guided ascents of Toubkal and other mountains in the Atlas range with fully qualified International Mountain Leaders, please contact us.