Toubkal Winter Weather conditions December 2018

Here in the High Atlas there was another big snowfall at the end of November, and then almost two weeks of sunshine. This has compacted the snow and has made for ideal winter mountaineering conditions.

The snowline is well below the refuge, and crampons are essential even on the approach to the refuge due to ice. Unfortunately a local man from Casablanca slipped off the icy approach path last week and didn’t survive the fall into the river below.

Porters are now necessary to get bags up to the refuge from Sidi Chamharouch, as the mules cannot manage in the snow.

On the normal route up Toubkal from the Refuges, the path is very obvious and compacted. Crampons and walking poles are essential, and an Ice-Axe advisable.

The traverse under the summit ridge at 4000m altitude is now extremely treacherous (see photo). It is just about wide enough for one person at a time, and requires careful maneuvering around lose rocks. The 400m drop below mean that you will require a good head for heights if you wish to summit at the moment.

The alternative route via the North Coll is in good snow condition too. There is no compacted trail as this route is much less frequented. The final 200m of it just below the summit is on a 45 degree snow slope and requires good use of ice-axe and general mountaineering skills, as well as a head for heights. On my latests descent via this route on the 10th December, there were many places where we were breaking through the hard crust into soft knee-deep powder. So it is quite energy sapping compared to the well-trodden normal route.

Enjoy your mountaineering, and stay safe.

Marc